Geisha-peeping

Kyoto is the cultural heart of Japan. While Tokyo and Osaka are alive with flashing neon billboards and giant shopping malls, Kyoto maintains the romance of a Japan that's mostly gone - the narrow cobblestone alleys, the lantern-lit teahouses, and the geisha.

I am fascinated by these carefully trained entertainers and was hoping to see one in Kyoto, although apparently they're a dying breed. According to my guidebook, Kyoto, the geisha capital, only has about 100 left. This is why I was beyond thrilled when Jolanka, Cameron and I stumbled into a tiny restaurant in the Gion area where two Geisha's sat eating at the counter.

We were transfixed watching the way they carefully ate so as not to smudge their make up. At first we were too shy to approach them and sat quiety eating our sashimi. A couple hours and many glasses of sake later, I worked up the guts to talk to them, and even ask to take a photo. They were more than happy to oblige.

I felt like I was in the presence of a celebrity. These women are carrying out an ancient Japanese tradition, and they looked so beautiful and elegant. Plus, they made even Jolanka look tan.